Food and Wine in Lisbon

One highlight of a recent short break in Lisbon was a Taste of Portugal food and wine walking tour https://www.airbnb.co.uk/experiences/175317 Lasting almost four hours this tour led by guide Darida explored three of Lisbon's oldest neighbourhoods in the east of the city. We learnt about past and contemporary life stopping often at local and family shops and restaurants to sample a range of delicious food and drink.

Cheese & Quice Jelly, ham & port

These tours cater for small groups and we were ten (from Dallas, San Francisco, Philadelphia, UK & Germany via the Dominican Republic) a great diverse mix sharing a love of good food and wine.

Meeting at the stunning Rue Augusta Arch in Baxia we learnt about the elegant buildings constructed after a massive earthquake in 1755. Then we we wandered off the crowded main streets to the first stop a specialty family run food shop which has been open since 1890.

Arch Rue Augusta

Meats and cheeses

It was here at Manteigaria Silva that we sampled the cheese, quince, ham and port while admiring the stunning range of produce for sale.

Salt cod and sardines

Our walk then took us north east into the medieval streets of Socorro where we sampled salt cod salad and delicate vino verde.

Salt cod and bean salad (photo from Taste of Portugal)

Then a trip into Mozambique to a well established restaurant showcasing the diversity of the people and food. Generous portions of samosas, vegetable curry, coconut rice and yogurt.

Darida serving our samosas

Next stop took us into the Alfama district to Muralha a typical tavern or wine bar. Octopus salad, chorizo and the black sausage morcela with red wine were the offer.

Flaming chorizo

And finally a sweet treat of coffee and cakes at Fabrica Pastel Feijao also located in Alfama. A modern variation on the traditional and very delicious Pasteis de nana (Portuguese custard tarts) this bakehouse and cafe produces cakes with a creamy vanilla filling and crunchy exterior.

Pastel de Feijao

This tour was exceptionally good, the selection of food and drink were varied and the portions generous. We were well guided by Darida who is knowledgable, personable and clearly proud of the Lisbon culture and culinary scene. It was worth every bit of the £56 we each paid. We left full and much better informed about the history, people and food of Lisbon 

Asparagus (bacon and eggs)

Asparagus is in my view a delicious treat it also has to be currently the most written about vegetable. Pick up any recent food article or supplement and you will find that this green delicacy features. The short English season started last week on St Georges Day and will carry on until June.

I have a very small asparagus bed, just a couple of rows, even so I get enough for a meal about every two days, just for me obviously as it is is too good to share. It almost seems to grow as you watch.

Armed with my crop of 8 spears I decided to pair it simply. I had some particularly great bacon purchased at a recent Northern Irish food event held in Borough Market. Kennedy bacon dry cured by hand in Omagh brands itself as "Bacon at its best" I have to agree www.kennedybacon.co.uk Luckily this is sold at Belfast International Airport so a supply can be topped up regularly.

A gift of eggs from Himley Browns Park Farm were just perfect to complete the dish.

I had a quick scan of recipes for inspiration and followed Tom Kerridge's cooking method for the asparagus in just a small amount of water and some butter.

The dish was asparagus, crispy bacon and poached eggs topped with a dressing and fresh chives. for the bacon this method cooked in the oven worked brilliantly www.baconmethod.com

So the ingredients comprised of

• lightly poached asparagus (5 minutes)
• crispy bacon cut into cubes
• poached eggs
• salad dressing
• fresh chives

For the dressing I mixed 2 tablespoons of olive oil, a splash of dill oil, 1 tablespoon apple vinegar (also from the Northern Ireland food event) a dash of runny honey, 1/2 teaspoon dijon mustard and some salt and pepper and gave it a good shake up in a jar.

Pour the dressing over the asparagus, bacon and eggs and top with fresh chives.

Fordwich Arms

Saturday lunch at the Fordwich Arms Sturry https://www.fordwicharms.co.uk was by far one of the best meals and dining out experiences us five food loving friends have enjoyed in a long while and certainly up there with the best.

The early success of Fordwich Arms has been well documented by many names in food writing. It appears regularly in the weekend supplements and the hype is well deserved. In October last year a mere ten months after the restaurant opened this team of three young (they are all 26) and their crew were awarded a much coveted Michelin star.

The atmosphere of this 1930's former pub is warm, inviting, and relaxing.  We at in the bright bar sitting on deep velvet banquettes. There was a great buzz of conversations from fellow diners and locals who are still very welcome to enjoy a pint at the bar. There is also an oak panelled dining room which is close to the river and the dog friendly garden.  The amiable, attentive and knowledgeable service from the staff was exceptional. Then there was the food.

 First there were the pre starters, three different types exquisite and bursting with flavour. One of our group is cows milk intolerant he had his own equally beautifully presented variations.

Delicious bread selection followed with different types of butter. We hadn't even begun on the starters yet.

Here are some of them duck liver parfait, pork jowl and trout take a look at the menu for full descriptions I cannot begin to do them justice with my culinary communication  https://www.fordwicharms.co.uk

Next mains two chose lamb, one pork, one duck and as you can see a lot more elements came too.

and the vegetarian option was a delightfully named "Wood roasted celeriac, hen of the woods mushroom, grelot onion, pear and Perigord truffle"

For dessert it had to be the new to their menu take on a Ferrero Rocher which was chocolate heaven

Of course there were drinks before, during and after, a cheese trolley and a tin of handmade petit fours to go with the coffee.

The Fordwich Arms is a place for special occasions. Its not cheap but spending a wonderful four hours over a lesiurely lunch on a cold bright February Saturday was worth every penny (or pound).

Monday - Friday they offer a 3 course set lunch for £35 no doubt with some extras. I shall be back soon.